The Curly Girl Method is a hair care regimen for all types of naturally curly, textured hair. It focuses on gentle cleansing, conditioning, and specific styling methods.

The Curly Girl Method (CGM) is a hair care approach specifically intended for people with naturally curly hair. It was popularized by hairstylist Lorraine Massey in her 2001 book, “Curly Girl: The Handbook.”

Massey championed the CGM because she saw how traditional hair care practices and products negatively affected curls. Throughout her career, she witnessed how harsh chemicals, intense heat, and aggressive handling could damage curly hair that may be drier and more prone to breakage than other hair types.

From her observations, Massey began promoting the CGM, a routine that says goodbye to harsh chemicals and styling and embraces gentle, nourishing hair care.

If managing your curls has always been a challenge and nothing you’ve tried seems to work, it may be time to consider the CGM.

The CGM is designed for people facing challenges with dry, brittle, frizzy, or dull, curly hair. It addresses common causes of these issues, such as hair products, handling, and styling techniques, and teaches gentler alternatives.

The CGM isn’t just a routine. It’s a hair care approach that considers the products you use, how you handle your hair, and the ideal styling tools and techniques for your hair texture.

The core principles of the CGM for any type of curly hair can be broken down into three steps:

  • cleansing
  • conditioning
  • styling

Cleansing

  • Use a water-soluble sulfate-free shampoo. Sulfates are harsh chemical detergents that can strip your hair and scalp of oils, contributing to frizz and dryness.
  • Massage the shampoo onto the surface of your entire scalp using circular motions to help break up residue.
  • Rinse thoroughly.

Conditioning

  • Use a water-soluble silicone-free conditioner. Silicones are common ingredients in hair products that provide a temporary shine. Over time, silicone can build up in layers, preventing moisture absorption and causing curls to become weighed down and dry.
  • Liberally apply conditioner in a downward motion, using your fingers until hair is saturated.
  • Don’t rinse conditioner completely. Leave some or all of your conditioner in your hair to promote hydration and reduce frizz.

Styling

  • Run your fingers through your hair after conditioning to work out any tangles or clumps.
  • Only detangle hair when wet. Avoid using a brush or fine-tooth comb, which can contribute to breakage and frizz.
  • Dry gently. Vigorous towel drying can cause breakage, and conventional towels and microfiber towels can pull too much water from your hair. A cotton T-shirt or a bamboo towel can be used to blot or gently pat out excess water.
  • Leave more water in your hair during towel drying if you want more weight and shape to your curls.
  • If you need to dry your hair quickly, use a low-temperature device like a diffuser.
  • Apply a silicone-free water-soluble gel or styling cream to damp hair. Once hair is completely dry, scrunch it upward toward your scalp to create a soft, bouncy curl.

Everyone’s curly hair is different. Even if you have the same type of curl as someone else, your genetics, history of hair styling, and environmental factors, such as humidity, can all affect the look and feel of your curls.

You may need to make some adjustments to the core CGM recommendations. People with severely damaged hair, for example, or tight curls, might find they need more conditioner than someone with looser curls or healthier locks.

It’s OK to experiment and find what works for you, using the CGM as a guide.

Tips and tricks for specific types of curls include:

Wavy or “S” wave hair

  • Hold your hair gently or wear a hair net when under the shower to prevent the pressure from affecting your curls.
  • Apply conditioner to the midsection of the hair, not the tips.
  • Skip the conditioning if your hair is very short or fine but feels well-hydrated after cleansing.

Cherub curls

  • Try using less shampoo.
  • Add an extra dab of conditioner on the hair at the nape of the neck, which is prone to tangles.
  • Instead of using the shower head, splash your hair with water to avoid disrupting your curls.

Corkicelli, Botticelli, or corkscrew curls

  • Let a layer of cleanser soak on the outside of your hair while you massage your scalp.
  • Start with a splash rinse for conditioner, and if you need to remove more product, let the shower head spray hit your head for a few seconds to distribute the conditioner.
  • Starting at the ends of your hair, apply gel and scrunch upward toward your scalp.

Fractal curls

  • Add a layer of cleanser over the top of your hair before you get in the shower as a pre-cleanse.
  • Splash a few handfuls of water over the conditioner to disperse it, but do not rinse it out.
  • Allow the conditioner to sit for several minutes before you add gel.

The CGM hasn’t yet been included in any large-scale research, but its principles align with established hair science and dermatology recommendations. Overall, the success of the CGM is attributed to its practical application in the hair care industry and is supported by real-world testimonials.

The reported benefits for hair and scalp health include:

  • improved moisture retention
  • reduced breakage
  • better curl texture and definition
  • balanced oil production
  • reduced scalp irritation

The CGM might not be right for all hair types. It’s specifically designed to work with the unique moisture and styling needs of curly hair. If you have straight hair, the moisture-rich methods of the CGM might make your hair appear greasy, oily, or flat.

Not everyone with curly hair is always a candidate for the CGM, either.

If you have a scalp condition like scalp psoriasis, for example, you may need to follow a strict hair care protocol from your doctor that requires:

  • strong cleansers
  • thorough rinsing
  • the avoidance of gels and hair products

The Curly Girl Method is a hair care regimen specifically for curly, textured hair. It prioritizes moisture and damage prevention while supporting overall scalp and hair health.

If you have straight hair or a scalp condition, the CGM might not be right for you. Your dermatologist can help you customize the CGM or find a routine that best suits your needs.